Yet another magic day.

Sunday, May 17.

This is the most leisurely morning we have had since our arrival. It looks as if it could be quite a miserable day. It is raining steadily with some wind. The forecast too does not give us any joy. However, we are looking forward to meeting with our friend Baiba at around midday for whatever adventures she has in mind.

Today is also Riga marathon. It is an international event with many competitors. Our street has been closed off to traffic. We have to make other arrangements to meet Baiba further up the road. It is not all that difficult. She is there with her bright daughter Brigita. Her husband has work commitments today.

It is raining hard enough for the windscreen wipers to be going all the time. I wonder just how we will manage the day.

We are off to Sigulda, sometimes referred to as the Switzerland of Latvia. By Latvian standards, the area is quite hilly. The River Gauja has cut a deep gorge through the hills which is the making of the spectacular landscape. In ancient times, the river was a difficult barrier for competing forces to cross. Thus, in historical times the ancient Livs (one of the Latvian ‘tribes’) built a fortress on one side to ward off the German Crusaders on the other.

The whole area is truly beautiful, the constructed as well as natural landscape. There are numerous recreational and sporting opportunities including skiing, bob sledding as well as bungee jumping. 

The restaurant is right next to the ski lift. How convenient!

Some of the guest houses are charming examples of recreational architecture. Sadly it is still raining but Baiba has kitted us all out with wet weather gear. It is time for lunch at one of their favourite venues Kaķītis (The Kitten), just at the start of one of the ski runs.

There are some most interesting traditional offerings on the menu, mine being one of the house specialities. It is so comfortable and friendly, we are reluctant to leave. But as Andrew would say, we are burning daylight even though it is quite wet.

We head for the old castle on this side of the Gauja. There is also a much newer castle / palace built by the German barons. However, it is the old ruins which is the main attraction here. The old castle yard is also arranged as an outdoor theatre for mainly musical performances which are attended from far and wide. Of special interest to me and Brigita is an exhibition of ancient arms and armour. We try some of them out. It also appears that outdoors during suitable seasons, combat displays are held.

Without too much history, below is a piece from Wikipedia.

Sigulda Medieval Castle was built by the Livonian Brothers of the Sword who were later incorporated into the Teutonic Order of the castle, thus the castle eventually became the property of the Livonian Order. The Livonian Brothers of the Sword, officially known as The Militia of Christ of Livonia, was a military order composed of German "warrior monks.” They later became better known as the Livonian Brothers of the Sword due to the symbols on their white capes: a red sword and cross. The order, founded in 1202, was the first "warrior monk” order formed outside the Mediterranean region. Historical documents indicate bishop Albert of Riga and Cistercian abbot Theoderich were the co-founders of the order. The military order’s mission was to remain in Livonia to protect the land and conquer new territories.

As part of the land division between themselves and Bishop Albert in 1207, the order gained the territory which stretched along the left side of the Gauja River. In the ongoing competition to determine hegemony between the Bishop and the Livonian Order, castle placement became a strategic factor. According to the Rhymed Chronicles, Sigulda Medieval Castle was erected sometime between 1207 and 1209 under the direction of Master Venno of the Order of the Brethren of the Sword. The Livonian Chronicle of Henry says that the castle was in use by the Brothers of the Sword as a base while battling revolting Livonians that were invading from a nearby castle. Sigulda Medieval Castle was initially built to monitor and control the water ways of the Gauja River and to fend off any invasion attempts from the nearby bishop’s castle in Turaida which was located on the river’s west coast.

Thus, it has a pretty ancient history. The old castle has been lovingly restored. There is a room which displays old weapons and armour. Brigita has started to relax with us. I invite her to come and inspect them and she agrees. We have a bit of fun. 

Nevertheless, she is getting a bit bored with the adults and invites us to play hide and seek which we all enjoy in the drizzling rain.

From one of my Hide'n'seek locations.

Turaida castle on the other side.

The grounds are beautiful, especially refreshed by the fine mist. However, the highlight of the day is yet to come. The two forts on opposite sided of the Gauja held siege for prolonged periods because it was too difficult to get across. Today there is a cable car connecting the two sides. Of course we have to go. It is a pity that the small single car is a bit crowded. It mists up inside as well as obscured with rain drops on the outside. However, the ‘driver’ lady has a wiper. We all jostle for a clear piece of glass against which to place our cameras. The view is indeed exhilarating. No wonder both forts found it hard to attack. It is still spring of course but the colours of the forest are as varied as in the autumn, even if not quite so bright.

Our charming cable car 'driver'.

At the Turaida end of the cable car, we get out to reboard for our return. We are suddenly recognised by some of the passengers. Apparently, Sandy’s story has been rebroadcast recently and we suddenly clicked. Oh my God! We are asked to be photographed with them. Their day has been doubly made.

We cross the gorge by cable car both ways. But we drive to Turaida on the other side.

The Latvians love their landscapes and the country. It is small scale, intimate, colourful and varied. It is as if here in Turaida it is at its best and treated with love and care. It is an informal park like setting. 

There is an open area where very large sculptures, carved out of single pieces of granite celebrate Latvian folklore. The most prominent piece is one of Kristiāns Barons, the collector and compiler of thousands of the traditional four line verses which convey wisdom, advice, humour as well as ethical values.

The ancient Latvians were probably the last of the Europeans to be Christianised. It was not until late in the 11^th century that missionaries arrived from Germany. The people living in what is now the territory of Latvia were nature lovers and worshipers of the Deities of Nature for millennia. This tradition still remains strong in all aspects of culture and folklore. Here it is very prominently on display in the various small buildings around the site.

In the foreground is an ancient mill stone. It was the inspiration for the logo of Latvia's EU Presidency.

I make a quick visit of the supposed grave of the ‘Rose of Turaida’, that you can read about at the end of this.

The supposed grave of the Rose of Turaida. There is a very old Linden tree which is carefully tended.

It is difficult to leave this colourful landscape.

The shock of urbanity.

But sadly, it is time to turn for home through more beautiful countryside as well as some city. BUT, Baiba feels that there is just one more thing we must do and have some refreshments by one of the many lakes around Riga. It is a charming location at any time but bathed by the now setting sun, it is specially beguiling. It is also a venue for all kinds of water sports including wind surfing as well as ice skating in the winter. Now we know why it is such a favourite for Baiba’s family.

And so ends another perfect day, even if it was a little damp.

The story of the Rose of Turaida, according to Wikipedia. How nice. 

After a battle at the foot of Turaida Castle in 1601, the castle clerk, while searching for survivors, found a baby in the arms of its dead mother. He called the child Maija and brought her up as his own. She grew up to be very beautiful and so was known as the "Rose of Turaida". She fell in love with Viktor, the gardener at the castle of Sigulda (opposite Turaida over the Gauja River) and in the autumn of 1620 they prepared to be married. Shortly before the wedding Maija received a letter from Viktor asking her to meet him at the Gutmanis Cave, their usual meeting place. She went to the cave with Lenta, the young daughter of her adoptive father. When she reached it, however, it was not Viktor she encountered but a Polish nobleman or soldier called Adam Jakubowski who was lying in wait for her with the intention of forcing her to be his wife. Maija promised to give him her magic scarf, that had the power to make the wearer immune from injury (in some versions the scarf is impossible to cut through), if he would let her go, and persuaded him to test its power on her. He struck her with an axe and she died, having thus saved her honour.

In the evening Viktor came to the cave and found the body of his betrothed and was accused of the murder. But in court there appeared a witness called Peteris Skudritis, who testified that he had been commissioned by Jakubowski to deliver the fatal letter. Lenta confirmed the course of events. Viktor buried his betrothed near the castle, planted a linden tree on the grave and left the country forever. According to documents in Sigulda's archives the soldier was later caught, tried and hanged for his crime.[1][2] From then on it has been customary for newlyweds to leave flowers on the grave of the Rose of Turaida in hopes of knowing the same eternal love and devotion.

The entrance to the cave.