Another remarkable day

Saturday, May 16.

With all the fresh air and exercise of yesterday, we cannot help but have a good rest. However, one complaint we have about our hotel is that breakfasts are a bit mean. The choices are pretty limited and the quality is variable. Some mornings the scrambled egg is not too overcooked, other days it is quite hard. We might have been spoiled at the Radisson. Nevertheless, we are ready for Silvija and Aivars soon after 10am.

On the way out.

The program for the day is to visit the Rundale Palace. It is worth noting some of the history of the place as it reflects much of Latvia’s history.

The name derives from the German name of Ruhenthal – the valley of peace.

The original palace / castle built in the 16^th century is on the other side of the present lake. The Rundāle manor itself was established at the end of the 15^th century. In 1735 Ernst Johan Biron bought the property for 42,000 ‘dalders’ – the currency at the time. The old castle / palace was completely demolished and the materials used for the new building.

In 1795, the territory was ceded to the Russian empire on the abdication of Duke Peter. When Catharine the Great took the throne, she gifted the property to Duke Valeri Zubov who died in 1804. In the split up of the inheritance, Rundāle became the property of his brother Platon Zubov who happened to be the last favourite of Catharine II -The Great. Even though for much of the time, it was the hands of various Russian nobles, the line of succession of ownership is recognised to be in the German Biron family. The current living title holder was present at the opening of the completed restoration in 2014.

The restored building reflects the glory days of the Russian Empire more than the German times. For most of the contemporary era, especially the Soviet times, it was badly neglected and used for all kinds of utility and storage purposes. It is a magnificent task of the present management team to have brought it close to its former splendour. It is deservedly a ‘must do’ attraction to visitors to Latvia. It attracts thousands every year.

The small town around here is not remarkable. However, once we get close to the Palace, we know we are in an exceptional place. The avenues of chestnuts are magic in their green luminescence and space. The beautifully trimmed trees around the entry approach, while very contrived, present a very disciplined sight. And the apple orchard is at its best. It is intoxicating with its aroma and a feast to the eyes.

On the way in, Aivars orders our lunch meals in the restaurant to minimise delays later. He obviously knows his way around here.

Our lunch venue.

Let the tour begin.

The generous lunch well chosen by Aivars is accompanied by a very refreshing rhubarb juice drink – unique for us.

 A few images on our return.

On a fine day like today, it is not easy to run late – beautiful places, fine company and food. We are back at the hotel to do a super quick costume change, call a cab and rush to the large Guild Hall for the 55^th anniversary concert of the male choir Gaudeamus. We happen to have chosen a young driver who is not sure just how to get close. In the end, I have to direct him for the last block! We are to meet Gunārs Nāgels inside because he has our tickets. We meet him on the stairs inside. He has got worried and sent an SMS to his wife in Melbourne who in turn has relayed the message to us. The possibilities of global communication!

We are in just as the door is closing. We are seated next to a couple of Canadian Latvian sisters who know all about us and Peter. They present Lois with a posy of Lily of the valley. It is a beautiful gesture. I dare say all this was probably not entirely by accident.

The quite short first part of the concert is with the Latvian Military brass band. But it is the second half which is the highlight. It is a specially composed cycle of songs about the seasons. The arrangements are amazing, together with a band of young musicians who play in the spirit of old Latvian music. It is almost like 16^th century rock. The conductor directs the choir from the side where he also sings solos and plays a number of instruments. It is a TOTAL performance. For us the one negative observations is that the hall could do with some acoustic adjustment. However, apparently the locals are happy.

After the concert, we go back stage. We are guided by one of the black Latvian choir members who has Latvian / Afro-American heritage. He has stayed with Ojārs on one of the choir visits to Sydney. We want to meet and thank the conductor / director. He not only invited us to the performance but dedicated a song to Peter at last year’s Latvian Cultural Festival in Melbourne. Ivars Cinkuss travels a lot and could be in Australia again soon.

The dull Soviet era building on the right is the venue of the Occupation Museum.   Museum Night crowds are everywhere.

The Occupation Museum in its new home.

Riga City Hall is in the background. And more Museum Night crowds.

Gunārs invites us to stroll to the permanent Occupation Museum in the centre of town. It has just reopened there. Tonight is a special night in Riga. Once a year and on one evening, ALL museums and galleries are open to the public for free until very late into the night. The city is live with people until early hours of the morning. Of course there are crowds here at the OM but we get a special preview. We discuss with Gunārs the planning and urban design difficulties he is having around the new premises. Riga is not a large city. It seems that too many conflicts of interest make life difficult. I hope that the view Gunārs and I share prevails.

Our gracious hosts for the day - Aivars and Silvija.

Another most remarkable day.