Busy beautiful Riga

We do seem to have made a rod for ourselves. I have committed myself to writing an accurate travel blog. However, little did I realise how busy we were going to be during our first days in Riga, especially during the World Press Freedom conference. On top of the conference program itself, we have tried to superimpose various other engagements. Some of them are of our initiative while others are invitations to the three of us just to show hospitality and the local folks pleasure at meeting us. The result of all that has been to stretch ourselves rather thinly and keeping up with the blog notes has become a bit masochistic. I even just realised that a couple of ‘events’ managed to get unreported in the high volume of items to recall and images to include.

This is too lovely not to share.

On Saturday, May 2, after a meandering start to the day, we have a lunch meeting in the old town with a group of senior Foreign Ministry officers. They are the ones who arranged our participation at the conference. We catch a cab to the address given but find ourselves lost. Strangely, neighbouring businesses just a few doors away could not give us directions. The sign was a little discreet so perhaps no surprise. When we finally make our discovery, our hosts are already seated. The names are not all that important but we are flattered that they are all ambassadorial level people and mainly ladies. The hospitality is warm and generous; the company sociable and engaging. Lest our time in Riga appear as a culinary festival, I better not mention the menu. However, it did turn out to be a most noteworthy lunch.  

With our waists a little firm, we walk on just around the corner to the Swedish School of Economics building for a pre-conference round table meeting where Peter is an important contributor. The first of our numerous receptions follows. It is a stand up affair with interesting finger food. It is a running start to the conference the following day. Everyone is so kind and welcoming.

The Swedish School of Economics.

 Sunday, May 3.

Today is the main day of the UNESCO World Press Freedom conference ‘Let Journalism Thrive’. The venue is the new National Library building a few minutes away from our hotel.

The opening ceremony is of course formal and rather prescriptive but coloured by the performance of three beautifully and most skilfully performed songs by a youth choir. 

The President of Latvia opening the conference.

The choir - a welcome relief from speeches.

I will not report in detail on the various sessions and topics. We know that Peter’s case was quite well covered in the Latvian media. The night before the conference a special half hour feature was aired. All together, we cannot move around even in Latvia without being recognised. People keep stopping us, especially Peter, expressing their joy for his freedom and commending us on the campaign. We just have to accept it with good grace.

We do yet another press conference. I am hoping to respond in Latvian but all the questions are in English. It is difficult to disrupt the flow. They all want to show off their English which is generally remarkably good. Even taxi drivers seem to have sufficient knowledge for simple conversations.

We have a formal meeting with Mr Rinkevičs, the Foreign Affairs Minister. Of course he has been very closely briefed and involved in Peter’s case right from the start, especially when it was realised that he is also a citizen of Latvia. He even rang me in Australia early last year. 

We thank him for his interest and especially for the role the Latvian government played. We make special commendations of Iveta’s sterling performance as well as Ralph King’s. We present him with a book of quite exceptional photographs of Australia’s wilderness which also happens to include a number of works of the Australian / Latvian Peter Dombrovskis, a distinguished nature photographer who worked mainly in Tasmania.

Baiba Braže, who is a senior MFA officer and one of the chief conference organisers, tells us that this is the first major international event being held within the Library. They can be very proud of the venue and the way the conference has conducted.

Conference members with special roles.

The building was designed by an internationally highly regarded American Latvian architect Gunārs Birkets. Largely because of the high cost as well as the design, the library has received much criticism, even derision. In many ways it is understandable that people are concerned about the cost as most voters are on state pensions which are very meagre. My own sentiments are that regrettably it is not a building with any street interaction. It does not appear to be enhancing public space, has yet not been able to establish a relationship or dialogue with the surrounding buildings and uses and is just not one that is simply pleasant to be close to. I do not know what plans there are to add other civic uses on the sites adjacent. I trust that the changes to the immediate surroundings will help the public to love and respect it.

Not particularly endearing close by.

Our experience of the building is through the conference. It is also worth noting that, as most libraries are designed today, it is not just a repository of books but this library also has spaces and other facilities. It is not only to host major international conferences but also includes function rooms for the Presidency. We know that previously the President has operated from one of the fine heritage buildings in the old town (one which we inadvertently wandered into on a previous visit) which nevertheless would not have had adequate amenities for a President of a EU nation. Thus, the library is a venue of considerable diversity.

Internally, the building appears to be a great credit to the designers as well as clients. It is referred to as Gaismas Pils – the Castle of Light. Learning and enlightenment has been a deep seated tradition for the Latvians. The built form can even be interpreted as a torch light on top of a castle. Internally the predominant element is the tall atrium which reaches right to the top.

While traditional books are never likely to be superseded, libraries everywhere realise that they are the conservers of other learning and knowledge devices than books. However, the library celebrates books in a very fine way. From the atrium, there is a wall of books, almost all the way to the top of the building. The books were donated by individuals and personally inscribed. The display has been very skilfully further enhanced by the use of mirrors.

Internally, the metallic light gray materials, used with discernment in combination with white birch creates a feeling of light, lightness and neutrality which at times is punctuated with colour in the furnishings and furniture. One aspect that I miss is some art which will no doubt soon follow. The detailing is particularly fine.

I am no expert on facilities for international conferences. However, it seems to me that here are examples of the leading edge in providing for large international events. There is simultaneous translation in a number of languages, large very high definition screens to relay images; even power outlets for each seat as well as password free high speed WiFi internet.  

The support staff are excellent. There is no cumbersome security but once your registration tag gets scanned, you are in. And then of course there is the catering. Over the years I have been to quite a few functions but for catering for large numbers (over 500 delegates in all), this is the tops. 

The canapé’s have been carefully and immaculately assembled, most of them of 4 or 5 ingredients – and they look stunning. The food range, quality and arrangements are quite exemplary. Full marks to the Latvian government and the organisers. But to top it all, as we learn at the conclusion of the event, it was fully funded by the Latvian tax payers, with the support of some large benefactors. THANK YOU!

The last function of the day is the ceremony for the award of the UNESCO/Guillermo Cano World Press Freedom prize. It is given for specially outstanding achievement and sacrifice for the cause. Peter was nominated but we all agree that a much more deserving candidate is a Syrian journalist who has battled the authorities for years and is still in prison in Syria.

We change to go to a reception for all the delegates. It is in a reclaimed and restored older building next door which also houses the Railway Museum. It is a great setting. A highlight for us is a meeting with the Latvian President. It is one of the few occasions for which we have dragged suits, jackets and ties half way around the world, cumbersome as it has been. It all seems a bit quick but a memorable moment nevertheless. There are meetings with other notable people but sadly too numerous to remember each of them. And the refreshments are memorably good.

Latvia currently holds the EU Presidency which it is exercising with great responsibility.

We cannot help being stunned by the modest level of security in this part of the world. There was no formal screening as we all filed in. Yes, there were the obvious body guards, attempting to be invisible, standing not far from the President but it so starkly underlines to us the differences between regimes, mindsets, values and practices. It is truly like fresh air.

Monday, May 4.

The more busy time of the conference is over. We feel we don’t need to be at every session. It is good to be able to engage in the very important side events, socialise and just ease off a little.

We have given ourselves a diversion of a walk in a nearby park. The day is sunny and it seems such a pity not to take advantage of the spring weather. It is so uplifting to engage with the awakening nature. It is a public holiday. People are out, enjoying the day. We do too. 

Because of the size of the venue, TV monitoring plays an important part.

To reflect on some of the conference and topics and issues, some clear and common themes emerge. How and whether a free media can exist (and to what extent) depends almost entirely on the country’s politics. Political, social, cultural and the local values context is thus all important. If only about 14% of the world’s population enjoy what could be regarded as freedom of speech and free media, we still have a very long way to go. According to someone’s on-going research, Finland keeps finding itself to have the greatest press freedom. Deservedly, it is hosting next year’s conference. The other Scandinavian countries bunch together near the top.

This picture is a photograph of the very high definition monitor.

Peter does a handful of interviews during the day. Many delegates recognise us, congratulate us and comment favourably on our efforts. We also meet a number of Aussies, some now working outside, some Latvian Australians. Chris Warren, the chief of our Media, Entertainment and Arts Alliance, is also here. Various ex-pats are everywhere.

The excellent facilities at this international event.

Today is the anniversary of the second declaration of Latvia’s independence. We regret that we have chosen to spend the day at the conference venue while some small scale ceremonies and functions are conducted around public places in the city. We stay for the closing ceremony but cannot linger as we have a State Reception to go to. This is to mark the National Day. This is the other occasion for us to get dolled up.

We catch a cab, anxious not to be late. We obviously overestimate time needed to get across Riga. In a matter of minutes and E5, we are at the venue which is the old small guild hall. As our taxi arrives, so does the limo of the Turkish Ambassador. This is also a day and occasion for foreign legations to socialise and be nice to one another. We follow the crowd. Again, no searches of bags for bombs, explosive sampling or other hazards. We were asked to take our formal invitations as well as passports with us. It was not until I attempted to take a photo as we were about to walk in that a security guard wanted to know that we had a legitimate reason for heading for the front door. He obviously wondered whether I am just an enterprising tourist.

Once we are inside the very finely restored small but almost opulent guild hall do we realise that this is quite a serious event. Although this is not a black tie night, all the men wear their medals and other decorations. In fact, because of the national importance of the day, the state has awarded various honours earlier today (i.e. as on Australia Day). One such recipient is a guy of Peter’s generation, of Latvian extraction who comes from Melbourne. We have the pleasure of being congratulated and introduced to too many people including the lady Speaker of Parliament, one of the original signatories of the second declaration of independence as well as a former student of the highly acclaimed teacher Jānis Greste who remembers getting an unexpectedly good mark from him. As we crowd around the exit, we are approached by the President’s wife who tells us what a fine job we have all done. And I end up having another chat with the Pres. himself while Peter and Lois did not recognise him (after the brief meeting the night before), perhaps overawed by the glory.

While it was only excellent stand-up food, we are so full that all we want to do is flop into bed, even though it is still light enough to take pictures. A very jovial lady taxi driver takes us back and invites us to join her at her second job which is on a small sightseeing ferry that pulls up just opposite the hotel. We will.

What a day!