The magic of Hagia Sophia

Wednesday, May 20.

Our host does not open his coffee shop until after 10am. As we are looking for an earlier start, it means our own scratch breakfast of yoghurt with some banana, the local bread and the Philadelphia cheese like labne.

An important landmark, far and near, at any time of the day.

Looking South to the Galata Bridge and the old capital city centre.

Even though the day is not crystal clear, we decide to start with a view from Galata Tower. The history of this structure goes back to 528 when Byzantine Emperor Anastasius Oilozus built a lighthouse here. Since then it has been rebuilt a few times but still has a powerful stature. We are among the first so there is no waiting. Fortunately, a lift has been installed for part of the way to the top. The slightly hazy atmosphere enhances the sense of distance. The view is indeed very fine.

The skyline is about 1km away. I am quite impressed with the quality of the small lens of my camera.

We are off downhill to the nearest tram stop. We top up the electronic public transport card that Yalcin gave us with 20tl by watching how other people do it. Then it is hopping on to the next tram to take us to Sultan Ahmed mosque – the Blue Mosque. Picking the right stop is rather by guesswork, following the tram route map. However, the Sultanahmet stop is clearly announced.

Lining up for Sultanahmet.

Although we think we are relatively early, the first shock is the large crowds already there, lining up to get in. It is a mixture of people from all faiths and parts of the world. Being a ‘working’ mosque, women’s heads need to be covered. Plain blue headscarves are supplied. As walking with shoes inside the mosque is also not allowed, this matter is overcome by issuing everyone with plastic bags inside which you carry your footwear.

The mosque is indeed beautiful and impressive. The only problem is that there are too many other admirers. We are constantly ushered along and not allowed into the main praying space. We take our photographs as best we can and hastily distil our impressions.

It is almost as if we are on the processing line. Once you get here, the next target is the mighty Hagia Sophia / Aya Sofya (Church of the Holy Wisdom), so named by Emperor Justinian who commissioned it. It is pretty well opposite Sultanahmet, separated by a greened large public space.

Looking back at Sultanahmet.

The pilgrims rest and recover.

And now for THE real thing.

The 'secret' to holding all the domes together is in the system of buttressing.

If only the stones could talk!

Parts of the buttresses. The domes of Sultanahmet are in the background.

H.S. is not now recognised either as a church or a mosque, even though it served both religion once. In 1453, the city fell to the Ottomans. Mehmet II converted it to a mosque and renamed it Aya Sofya. Many of the fine frescos and mosaics were covered over and minarets added. However, today it is no longer regarded as a serving mosque but a ‘museum’. What is not acknowledged is that H.S./ A.S. is in fact the mother of all great churches as well as mosques. To have constructed the huge dome almost 1500 years ago is a structural as well as architectural marvel. All of the subsequent large mosques were, one way or another, modelled on the H.S. as is pretty obvious. From the silhouette, most untrained eyes could not tell the difference between the Blue Mosque and H.S.

Sultanahmet - photographed from the Galata Tower. Not bad for my small camera, even if I did a bit of tweeking of the original.

To me, it was a return visit to an architectural shrine. My legendary architectural history teacher Miles Dunphy raved about it. I have lectured and sermonised about it as well as the great legacy of Byzantium. I visited it for the first time in 1962 and here I am again!

As for all great spaces, even video cannot convey its sense, impact and awe (in the most literal sense) of a great ‘room’. You have to be there. Here is a meagre attempt to say something about it.

There are so many places around here offering food that it is quite bewildering. As it is now well past our usual lunch time, it is largely a matter of which one offers the nicest setting. It might sound a little strange but at our selected place, we end up having a ravioli Turkish style – but ravioli it still is. Nice and filling.

Other lunchers seemed to be having a good time so we joined in.

Add yoghurt and some mint leaves and suddenly - Turkish ravioli.

After the return by tram and slow grind up the hill, we tap into our host’s local knowledge for some plans beyond Istanbul. We have not made any arrangements yet. We will work something out tonight and decide tomorrow. For the time being, our ideas favour flying to Kapadokya next and returning to Istanbul via the Aegean Coast.

We take a slow evening stroll along the stretch of the long pedestrianised street leading to Taksim Square. Along the way, we share a stuffed potato for our ‘dinner’. The potato is enormous – big enough to take 7 different fillings + butter and cheese, topped off with mayonnaise. It has been a most enjoyable and sufficient choice, all for 11.50tl. 

Our giant potato.

The potato masters.

After visiting three of the city's probably greatest monuments, it is quite humbling to think of the enormous and rich heritage which has been left to Istanbul. They are draw-cards like no other. Istanbul owes these monuments what cannot be valued. All the people who contributed to those landmarks of not only the city but to history can be justly proud of their legacy. 

And back home at Galata Square.