The North Aegean coast

Selcuk to Assos

Tuesday, June 9.

It is our second last full day in Turkey. The day starts out indifferently. We manage to scrounge some food at our lodgings soon after 7am, although the breakfast room does not officially start until 8. It helps us to make a fairly early start. However, it is a very dull day; in fact the worst day weatherwise in Turkey. We have chosen a coastal route to our next destination but it is not a scenery day. It is almost foggy. Soon we get patches of light rain. We have chosen this coastal route largely for its potential scenery but it does not appear. We get tempting glimpses of the Aegean but they are only flashes. In any case, it is too misty to see the high mountain ranges that define much of this grand coastline. Given another chance, we would try to do it again, just for some of the rugged terrain.

We pass through Ismir, one of Turkey’s biggest cities. Fortunately, we are able to only pass through without too many deviations and traffic delays. It is a recently completed through road. Not far North of Ismir is one of Turkey’s big  industrial centre with power generation including wind turbines as well as what seems to be a steelworks and related industrial activity. It appears very polluted but the dull and unpleasant sky makes the impression much worse. We cannot get away from here fast enough. A few kilometres further around the coast, we can overlook the bay which harbours a lot of bulk carriers. A tall chimney is billowing smoke and the wind turbines make an powerful impact on the skyline, especially when turning. We also passed a large plant which produces them. Seeing some of the components on enormous trailers helps us to appreciate just how gigantic the blades are. They seem to turn at a gentle pace but the blade tips must really belt along at very high speed.

Turkey has its media problems but there sure is a big selection of papers.

We have not yet learned the name for fruit stall as we drive at around 100 k/h. There usually are some signs but we flash past too fast to see, not wanting to pull up in a hurry. However, without too much traffic behind, we pick one up and buy some of the very best cherries, strawberries, apricots and peaches. We are certain they have not seen the inside of any cold room.

It is a bit the same with our lunch venue. Roadside café’s and restaurants are not obvious to us. Once we start feeling hunger pains, on the second try, we succeed. It is a little town, just off the highway. It is market day. The whole town centre is like one big country bazaar. We have to leave the car at a location which we hope we can locate because we almost get lost in the maze of the colourful stalls. 

Somewhere deep inside is a small local restaurant which is a pide bakery as well as serving other dishes. We have a plate of white beans, the local equivalent of our baked beans but much more appealing as well as a cold yoghurt and cucumber soup and one of the best pide’s in the whole of Turkey – and stacks and stacks of bread. The pides seem to have been getting better along the way. The Turks sure love their bread but when you can have it so fresh straight from the oven, you can truly eat it plain. Just as well Lois is not troubled by any of it. She has either grown out of the gluten problem or the flour here is very different. In any case, we have over ordered again!

As we drive through much of Turkey, we cannot help take note of all the obvious recent development. Almost all the buildings one sees from the road are contemporary with many obviously very recently constructed and numerous structures still in the cause of being completed. Many seem unoccupied. Who are they for? Is the Turkish population mushrooming? Are they really so well to do that many people can afford new housing or multiple residences?

Unimpressive development.

As we approach our destination for the night, more of what appears to be resort or holiday type of housing is everywhere – mostly of a mass-produced stand-alone type. There are no streets, just blocks. Yet, we have not found one beach or pleasant waterside spot. Something strange is happening here. Much of it reminds us of the worst of our Sunshine coast, less the sand and the surf.

Olives grow right along the sea coast.

We must be getting close to our destination.

We are heading for Assos, a town that does not even appear on our maps

. We picked it up from a reference in Lonely Planet. As we head in what we believe to be the right direction, it is confirmed by a number of enquiries. One helper even gives us a mud map. It takes us off the main road, on to an almost single lane only partly paved track. Assos is supposed to be about 15km on somewhere. We have gone a good 20 when we feel we better find someone to ask again. As it happens, Assos is now behind us another 16 so on we go. Finally we steer into a tiny village where everything is made of the one local stone. The streets are one car wide. When we feel we cannot negotiate any further, there is little choice but enquire again. We happen to have stopped almost at the front door of the Biberevi, our hosts for the night. I find my way in expecting to be knowingly greeted. The lady is charming with excellent English but no, she is not expecting us. It seems that in the middle of my booking, the power failed and it did not get thorough. However, they are very happy to have us.

We have indeed arrived.

Our hosts are very welcoming and sociable. They reflect the place they have here. The gentleman has restored an old village house with loving care and discriminating taste and turned it into a small guesthouse. It is cosy, intimate, adorned with plants and flowers and all kinds of attractive adornments. He has carefully tried to reflect the local character and Turkish traditional forms and decoration. He shows us around his small garden which is up on an impossibly high terrace. He lost some fruit trees because the winter was unprecedentedly cold – 16 below zero, much colder than in anyone’s living memory. They also grow some 130 varieties of chilli. Biber Evi means Chili House.

Inspecting the chilli garden.

Over abundant Turkish tea, we discuss recent Turkish politics, the election of a few days ago, religion, economics, history and much more. It seems we have a few values and attitudes in common. He confirms that the building work we have seen along our route is indeed speculative. He laments that while many of the buildings are owned by middle class Turks as second or holiday homes, it is unproductive investment that Turkey does not need. The Turkish school holidays are almost two month in the summer. Many spend the time in their second homes which they own but rent apartments in a city.

Regrettably the light does not flatter the food but it was excellent.

We cross the street for our evening meal. We feel it is the most ‘authentic’ Turkish country meal we have had. It is a soup that is truly delicious but difficult to work out what it is made of. Because we had such a big lunch, we can fit in only three cold salad dishes and a beer, all of which are the most flavoursome we have had. The lady cook who speaks passable English tells us that while we had difficulty finding the village, around Anzac time, they do get a lot of visitors from Aus.

The village may be tucked away but international visitors are no strangers here .

We wish we had programmed another day here. It is such a friendly and truly welcoming place which feels indulgent just to simply be here. We have discovered since that many TripAdvisor reviewers have given it five stars. We would too.

Not an unattractive end to a long day's driving.


Our route from Selcuk to Assos in light blue.