Exploring the neighbourhood

Ortahisar

Wednesday, May 27.  

In no time at all, our hosts have become our friends. They are very obliging and most helpful with advice on how to enrich and enjoy our time here. The decision is to explore the neighbourhood on our own. I travelled through here as one of the first ‘hippy’ back packers nearly 55 years ago. It was enroute from London to Singapore, using local transport. My companion then was Lois’s sister Elsa. We stayed in Goreme. There were no hotels as we know them now. Someone took us into their home spare room. Elsa was given the status of an honorary male because in those days in Goreme, what was then a very much out of the way village, gender segregations was part of life. We were one of the first non-Turks they had probably met. Our reception was friendly and hospitable and we had an unforgettable few days.

Today we are making a return visit to Goreme and catch a taxi. How different it is!!! Every place would have changed in 50 years but I truly do not recognise anything about it. Today it is the tourist hub where most visitors make their base for Capadokkia. The locals are obviously trying to give it an international flavour which we do not like. We are so glad we are staying in Ortahisar which still retains its rural village character. 

As we walk around, the one feature I recall is that we were walking though the centre of the village along a small creek with quite steep banks. It even had an elevated stone bridge across it. Now I recognise that this stream / water course is a concreted drain, probably still following its old course. It has been urbanised with paving and trees on both sides. Of course it is more amenable to walk along it but it could almost be anywhere in the world. Notwithstanding all that, we notice that there are still a few good views available.

We have a small lunch and then look for one of the local minibuses that serve the locals very efficiently to take us back. There is no direct service to Ortahisar but he drops us off at the crossroads and we walk into town. We are glad we are doing this because there are some charming and most interesting views. We also get to have a feeling for the outer parts of the village.

We have a small lunch there before heading back by local bus. Our taxi charged us 10tl which was too much. The bus goes to Urgup but he drops us at the crossroads and we walk back. Some nice and interesting views.

The modern repetetetive housing on the edge of town.

It is still a community of small farmers.

We return and it is time for some r&c – relaxation and correspondence. The intended family hookup will not take place until Saturday morning. Peter has just arrived back in Australia from London. He is tired and needs sleep to recover from jetlag.

Our host recommends a dinner venue which is highly recommended by Fatma. One of the staff who lives nearby takes us there in her car. The setting is magnificent, the dining room very pleasant but the food and wine are not. There is a mistake in the ordering stuffed pumpkin flowers. We only wanted one serving. Our main choice is Tandor cooked lamb shank with cinnamon but it is a sad letdown. It is almost tasteless, dry and regrettably poorly presented. Rather amusingly, the waiter has a manner as if he were serving in the Ritz. It is almost Basil Faulty style.

It was our intention to walk back but it is too dark. We may not find our way back down the steep uneven and, for Lois, potentially unsafe street. It turns out that because of the restaurants rather high and ‘exotic’ location, it offers diners a service to take them back to their lodgings.

We hasten to bed because tomorrow we are booked for a balloon flight for which we will be picked up at 4.10am.  

The profusion of blossom, wild flowers and unusual grasses is a great joy and delight.